Sicily

The word ‘largest’ seems to be continuously associated with the Island of Sicily. It’s described as the ‘largest’ Italian island and the ‘largest’ of Italy’s twenty regions. It’s also referred to as the ‘largest’ island in the Mediterranean. And the world famous ‘Mount Etna’ is considered to be Europe’s ‘largest’ volcano. Sicily itself is an autonomous Italian region, which is divided into nine provinces, each with a capital of the same name – the ‘largest’ being the city of Palermo, which has a population of more than 700,000.



These nine provinces comprise Palermo, Messinia, Trapani, Agrigento, Calta-Nissetta, Enna, Catania, Siracusa and Ragusa. Probably the best known city is Palermo, which lies on the coast to the north of the island, and lays claim to Monto Pellegrino, which was described by Goethe as ‘the loveliest headland in the world’. Sicily’s ‘greatest landmark’, however, is undoubtedly ‘Mount Etna’, which, in addition to being Europe’s largest volcano, is also regarded as being Italy’s highest ‘non Alpine peak’. Lying to the east of the island it rises to a height of 3,300 m. and comprises a total area of about 1,400 sq. km. The Sicilians themselves are said to refer to Etna as ‘the mountain of mountains’, and it’s claimed that it’s been disgorging steam or glowing lava since time immemorial’.

And in Catania this ‘natural force’ can even be seen in the city centre. Ascending Mount Etna rates as a ‘top excursion’ amongst tourists visiting the island. And it’s claimed that the climb is ‘one of the most impressive experiences’ during a visit to Sicily. It’s even stated that the ascent is not particularly arduous – but warm clothing is recommended! It’s also possible to take a sightseeing excursion around the mountain by train – a trip which it is said takes three hours, but which offers a comfortable means of travel.

Sicily covers an area of 25,426 sq. miles while its coastline extends for 1,200 km. Beautiful beaches abound all over the island, but some in certain sectors are not suitable for swimming because of the rocky terrain. Sicily being a large island, one has to be relatively selective when choosing one’s sightseeing sites if one has just a couple of weeks at one’s disposal……

Certainly it would seem that the capital Palermo always attracts tourists en masse. Described as ‘the undisputed cultural, economic and political centre of the island – and a city of superlatives and contrasts’, Palermo has a plethora of attractions. It’s also considered to be ‘stupendously sited’ since it’s situated between two foothills in a beautiful bay.

It bears evidence of numerous cultural changes too ranging from Byzantine mosaics, Arabic domes, to Baroque churches and palaces. Palermo Cathedral, described as ‘a monumental edifice’ is regarded as a ‘Norman relic’, some of whose structural parts have been restored in later years. However, the cathedral’s ‘triple-apses and curved towers’ are all original, and of particular interest within the cathedral’s confines are the tombs containing the ‘remains’ of some of Sicily’s past monarchs.

The shining red Moorish domes of the deconsecrated Church of San Giovanni degli Ermiti is an edifice that is impossible to miss. Built in 1148, the building was described as the ‘most obviously Arabic of the city’s Norman relics’. And it was built on the remains of a former mosque.

The Capella Palatina, which was built in the early 12th century as the ‘court church’, is considered to be exceptionally beautiful, its interior being almost totally adorned with impressive twelfth century mosaics. The church of La Martorana, likewise, is considered to be one of the finest survivors of the medieval city, and it too has been endowed with a spectacular collection of mosaics.

Palermo has numerous museums and art galleries. And these include Museo Archeologico Regionale, which is said to contain some of Italy’s most important collection of antiques, some of which are considered to be world famous. Likewise, the Galleria Regionale lays claim to a magnificent medieval art collection. And described as ‘one of the masterpieces of the collection’ is a fifteenth century fresco which bears the title of ‘Triumph of Death’.

Particularly popular too is the ‘Museo dello Marionette’ where Sicily’s collection of traditional hand made puppets are on display. And during the summer months a succession of puppet shows are presented. Once described as ‘controversial’, due to its 644 naked marble figures, is the Piazza Pretoria which also has a magnificent fountain known as ‘Fontane Pretoria’.

A not-to-be-missed Palermo sight is the Palazzo dei Normanni, originally built by the Saracens and then enlarged by the Normans, and which is now the seat of the Sicilian regional parliament. There are numerous sites to be seen that lie outside the city centre. These include the Capuchin Abbey, famous for its catacombs, where a particularly macabre spectacle of 8000 mummified bodies can be viewed! These catacombs are claimed to have been hewn in the volcanic rock in the 16th century and used as ‘burial places’. And the macabre scenes that greet one are thousands of mummified corpses, either lying in the passageways or hanging from the walls!

It’s certainly a sight that one would be unlikely ever to forget……. Agrigento, the capital of the province of the same name, lies to the south of the island, and is very close to the coast. And, because of its many spectacular temple ruins, together with its picturesque hillside location, Agrigento has become a prime tourist destination. In fact, it’s claimed that an unending procession of tour buses constantly head towards the city. It’s actually possible to go on a ‘day trip’ from Palermo to Agrigento - even though it involves travelling from the north of the island to the south. Because of its superb temple ruins Agrigento has been described as ‘one of the most rewarding towns in Sicily to visit’.

A road leads down from the ‘modern town’ of Agrigento to the renowned Valle dei Temple – Valley of Temples. These Doric temples, most of which date from the 5th century BC, have been described as being ‘the most evocative of Sicilian remains’. Considered to be one of the most perfect temples in the Greek world, and the best preserved Doric temple in Sicily, is the Tempio di Concordia – the Temple of Concordia, which is believed to have been built in the year 425 BC.

Spectacular views of both the city and the sea can also be enjoyed from the precincts of the Temple of Concordia. Other temples that occupy the Valley of Temples include the Temple of Hera Lacinia, twenty five of whose columns are still upright, Tempio di Ercole – a circular edifice known as Temple of Hercules, and Tempio di Giove Olimpico – Temple of Olympian Zeus, claimed to be the largest temple ever known, but described now as an enormous mass of shattered stone blocks and pillars which an earthquake has scattered over a vast area.

The Museo Nazionale Archeologico Regionale – the Archeological Museum – is a ‘must-see’ sight in Agrigento for it contains important archaeological finds that date from prehistoric times to Roman times. Agrigento lays claim to a number of other museums, including: Museo Diocesano – the Diocesan Museum - which displays items such as fresco paintings and reliquaries from the Byzantine era; and the Museo Civico, which contains paintings from the 14th to the 18th century and sculptures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Agrigento’s cathedral dates back to the 11th century and was originally built by the Normans. It was later extended in the 13th and 14th century, and during the 17th century was partially converted into a Baroque style. And part of the building was also restored following the damage it sustained in the 1966 earthquake.

Hotels abound in Agrigento since tourism is now a major source of income for its inhabitants. Beaches are also easily accessible from Agrigento, the nearest ones being Lido San Leone – lying to the south east of the city, and Porto Empedocle, lying to the south west of the city. Located on Sicily’s eastern coast, and overlooking two spectacular bays, the terraced town of Taormina is described as Sicily’s best known resort. With the classical remains of its Greco-Roman theatre perched high above the resort, and Mount Etna providing a breathtaking backdrop, Taormina is a visually stunning city, and it’s claimed that tourists flock to stay there.

And Taormina’s Greco-Roman theatre is not only a stunning place to visit by day, but during the summer season Greek plays (in Italian) are performed there. The city has a number of churches, such as San Pannazio and Santo Caterina. And its cathedral, known as San Nicola, was originally built in the 13th century.

Taormina’s closest beach is Mazzaro, north of which lies the beach of Spisone, which is also bordered by numerous bars and restaurants. And particularly popular with tourists is the islet known as Isola Bella, which can be reached across a peninsula on foot or by cable car. Situated high above the Ionian Sea and possessed of lush vegetation, fabulous views, historic sites and access to good beaches, Taormina has been a popular holiday resort since the 19th century.

Further down the eastern coast lies Siracusa, which was first colonised by the Greeks in 735 BC, and which lays claim to some of the best Greek archaeological sites anywhere. In ancient times Siracusa was regarded as the largest and most powerful town in Sicily. The island of Ortigia, which is separated from the mainland by a narrow waterway, and can be reached by crossing the Ponto Nuovo Bridge, represented the area’s first ‘settlement’.

Situated in the centre of the island is the cathedral of Duomo Santa Maria delle Colonne, which was built onto and incorporated the remains of the famous ancient Temple of Athena. With its Baroque façade, the cathedral has also retained the twelve fluted columns that belonged to the original temple. The temple, initially dedicated to the Virgin Athena, was converted into a church in the 7th century, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary instead. And it is a remarkable edifice - which tourists flock to see.

The Museo Archeologico is also a ‘must see’ location on most tourists’ ‘sightseeing itineraries’, with its vast collection of exhibits from the early Greek colonies.

And nearby stands the ruined church of San Giovanni Evangelista, which was destroyed by the 1693 earthquake, and never rebuilt. However, its catacombs still exist, which feature an extensive underground necropolis that date from the 4th to the 6th century.

Siracusa’s vast Parco Archeologico is another distinctive feature of the area. And described as the park’s main highlight is the Greek Theatre (Teatro Greco), which was built in 470 BC and which is considered to be ‘one of the most important of its kind in the world of Greek antiquity’. Cut out of rock and overlooking the sea, the theatre is capable of seating an audience of 15,000 people. Described as one of the largest theatres in the whole of the ancient Greek Empire, it has remained a prime venue for the enacting of Greek drama (in Italian) for many years. Near the theatre stands the remains of the Temple of Apollo, which was excavated between 1938 and 1943, and is regarded as Sicily’s oldest temple, having been built in 570 BC.

Also occupying a large area of the park is the Roman Amphitheatre where such events as Gladiator Fights used to take place. Nowadays it is used as a venue for the occasional ‘rock concert’. To the west of the Roman Amphitheatre is a huge third century Altar called ‘Ara di Hierone II’ where bulls used to be sacrificed as fare at an annual banquet known as the ‘Feast of Zeus Eleutherios’ (the Zeus of Freedom). It’s claimed that as many as 450 bulls were ‘sacrificed’ on each occasion

Siracusa’s northernmost district is known as Epipolai and it is here that the Castello Eurialo (Euryelos Castle) can be located. The castle is claimed to be ‘one of the strongest fortifications still remaining from the times of the Greeks’.

It is also claimed that it was here, when Siracusa was besieged by the Romans between 213 BC and 212 BC that the remarkable mirror constructed by the famous mathematician Archimedes was used to reflect the sun, and succeeded in setting fire to the sails of the enemy fleet. Archimedes himself was killed when the Romans managed to conquer Siracusa in 212 BC, and a site known as ‘Grave of Archimedes’ draws many tourists. The aforementioned areas may represent Sicily’s principal places of interest, but, in reality, the island simply abounds with ancient and historical sites.

Likewise, it also abounds with beaches and stunning coastal areas, encircled as it is by three seas, namely the Ionian Sea, the Tyrrenian Sea and the Libyan Sea. And at one time it was considered to be a land-bridge that joined Africa and Europe. Certainly, as a holiday destination, Sicily is a truly remarkable island, where one can easily combine a beach-side break with any number of sightseeing excursions………

Roberta Crookes has worked as a newspaper journalist throughout most of her life, writing news stories, editorial features, advertisement supplements, and reviews. And in the course of her work she has interviewed many famous people from all walks of life. She has also managed to combine parallel careers in both journalism and acting, and, being Welsh speaking from North Wales, her main television featured parts have been Welsh language roles with BBC Wales.